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CASK is a proud supporter of Independent Brewers (Craft and Home)!!
NHC 2013
Frank Clark's Guide to Brewing the 18th Century Way.

This also appeared as an
article in our Summer 2013 Newsletter.

This is for making beers pale to brown.

Guidelines:

Base malt is generally Maris otter since it is one of the older varieties’ still available and has a slightly darker color. The malt kilns were often fired with wood or even straw so some smoked malt is acceptable. The malts were not as uniform as today but generally fell into three categories
  • Pale a bit darker then today's.
  • Amber, probably closer to dark Munich, victory, try to stay away from crystal malts as they come later in 1820’s when Wheeler invents the patent malting drum.
  • Brown, The only one still made today is Paul’s but, you can also play with toasting some pale malt to a darker color in the oven. Small amounts of special B since it is not too sweet can mix in as well and some malt may have gone into the kiln still wet to crystalize. The Belgo Franco coffee malt can also go in small amounts but it is powerful.
Adjuncts, Go nuts! There was no purity law in England! The brewers used almost every chemical spice and sugar known to man. Lots of brown sugars, molasses, and treacle’s. ginger, cyanine, coriander,  herbs, fruits ect.


Process:

Brewers typically brewed 2 or 3 batches from one set of grain, thereby creating beers of descending strengths. THEY DID NOT SPARGE! So you would make strong ale or keeping beer, and a small beer, or a strong beer a table beer and a small beer. You want at least 10 pounds of base malt and anywhere up to 8 or 9 more pounds of specialty malts for two or three five gallon batches. Single infusion is fine but wooden mash tubs lose heat quickly so they often capped the mash with fresh malt to insulate it. Mash times started at an hour and went up a half hour more with each additional mashing. This is why it is good to have two people doing it or at least two kettles so you can heat water for mashing while boiling the first wort and thenswap it for later boils. They would usually run the mash through the hops in a sack often with a handful of salt added to them and then add it to the wort to boil.
Hops should be Kent Golding’s or WGV or first gold and possibly fuggles hop rates varied depending on how long the beer was intended to last. It could be pretty high for export styles and dry hopping was very common.

Yeast was not single strains and probably varied to the pretty funky. We use English strains mostly but some of the less powerful Belgian strains might work and you could also find some Brett and other bugs I would imagine, but they shouldn’t overwhelm the taste.
Beer was often fermented, shipped, and sometimes even served in wood so wood flavors are expectable.

Have fun and good luck!



Old Ale From First Runnings (5 gallon batch) ...

  • 12 lbs Marris Otter
  • 3 lbs Munich Malt
  • 4 oz Roasted Barley
  • 1 lb Special Roast
  • 2 oz Golding  for 60 minutes
  • 2 oz Fuggle    for  5 minutes
Single infusion mash for 60 minutes at 155° F

Ferment with an English Ale yeast




Small Beer from  the second runnings of the same mash as above (5 Gallon Batch) ...

  • Add 2lbs of fresh grain to mash
  • Mash for 90 minutes at 160° F

  • 1 oz fuggle at 60 minutes
  • 1 oz fuggle at 10 minutes
Ferment with an English Ale yeast
 




Pumpkin Ale (5 gallon batch):

  • 2 oz Coriander
  • 1 oz Crystal Ginger
  • 3 lbs of Pumpkin (roasted butternut squash can be substituted if pumpkin is out of season)
  • 2 lbs Brown Sugar
  • 10 lbs Marris Otter
  • 1 lb Special Roast
  • 2 lbs Brown Malt
  • 1 oz Golding  for 60 minutes
  • 1 oz Golding  for 10 minutes
Pumpkin or Squash should be roasted prior to mashing until brown.
Single infusion mash for 152° F for 60 min

1 Package of Muntons GOLD dry yeast  


CASK
Colonial Ale Smith and Keggers
P.O. Box 5224
Williamsburg, VA 23188

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